Roma is far and away our favorite city. We take the train from the airport into the city (Termini), catch the Metro, and head straight to the Colosseum (of which we’ve yet to take a tour). Although it’s not necessary – the Metro is easy to use, and there are plenty of cabs – we tackle the city entirely on foot… that seems to ease the guilt of eating lots of delicious food and drinking plenty of red Italian wine!
We’re no Rick Steves, but here are our recommendations for Roma!
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Lancelot. via Capo d’Africa 47. Located a few blocks behind the Colosseum, the Lancelot is a great place to stay, with a location that’s hard to beat. Lancelot is owned and managed by Mrs. Khan. Very helpful staff and nice, clean rooms with showers and queen beds. The construction of a brand-new hotel across the street has prompted the Lancelot to spruce up most of its rooms. Includes a light breakfast, and there’s a nice little vine-covered patio tucked off to the side of the small, intimate bar. Some of the rooms have access to balconies; request these ahead of time. Phone: 39-6-70450615; email: lancelot@italyhotel.com.Tip: the front gate is usually locked; press the button to the left of the front door as you leave the hotel to buzz the gate open.
Hotel Capo d’Africa. via Capo d’Africa 54. Right across the street from Lancelot, and much swankier. Lovely, modern rooms and attentive staff. A fantastic rooftop bar as well as a nice bar in the lobby. Very, very nice (albeit pricey). Phone: +39 06 772801; email: info@hotelcapodafrica.com.
WHERE TO EAT
Mediocre food can be found anywhere… even in our beloved Roma. Because we cherish every day we’re there, we’ve try to check reviews before eating dinner. If you find someplace especially good, please let us know. Here are some of our favorites
Lunch and Snacks
Caffe Leonardo. Piazza Mignanelli, around the corner from the Spanish Steps. Our daily stop for lunch and to check email. Great place for pizza and salad. Ask for Mariella, and tell her Bob & Gina from St. Louis said hi!
La Vineria. Campo di Fiori. Great place for wine and little snacks. Grab a table outside and watch the beautiful Romans pass by.
Bakery. Via dei Baullari, at the end of Campo di Fiori. Very nice desserts (grab one and enjoy), and bread.
Gelateria. Via dei Baullari, at the end of Campo di Fiori. A daily MUST! Just keeping moving toward the front of the line.
Hotel Capo d’Africa. On Capo d’Africa, across from Hotel Lancelot. Enjoy cocktails and snacks in the lobby bar. A swanky place with comfy leather chairs. Great place to chill.
Gusto. Piazza Augusto Imperatore. +39 06 3226273. Good cheese and olives.
The Weekend Market (Saturday and Sunday only). Campo di Fiori. Buy excellent cheese and salami from the white wagon; the lady is very friendly and happy to give samples. We stop here every weekend before we head back to the US to get our supply of parm and salami. Yummmmy!
DINNER
Trattoria Monti. Via di San Vito 13, near Santa Maria Maggiore. Oh my gosh, excellent as long as the A/C works! Amazing potato flan. Probably the best meal in town, and not fancy at all. Tip: Monti is a favorite with the locals, and tourists may have a tough time getting in, so have someone from your hotel call to make a reservation. Phone: 06-780-1342.
Le Naumachie. Via Celimontana 7. Near the Colosseum, Hotel Capo d’Africa and Hotel Lancelot. Really yummy pizza and pasta; good service and a nice space.
Fish. 16 Via dei Serpenti. Nuevo-Asian/fusion, very good food, sushi, fish, veggies, and wine! Nice décor, trendy; watch for the beautiful people.
Ristorante Matricianella. 2-3-4 Via del Leone. Very nice dinner; the mussels, steak, and eggplant dishes are very good. Phone: 06-683-2100.
Oesteria Della Aquila. Via Natale del Grande 52. In Trastevere, on one of the main roads running N & S, near one of the bridges across the Tiber. We stumbled across this place, and it’s worth finding again. Excellent pasta, excellent meat/fish, great potatoes! They only speak Italian but fun trying to figure out what might arrive at the table! Eat outside when the weather’s nice.
Grill & Wine. 74/75 Via in Arcione. Excellent grilled fish and vegetables, nice cheese plate, and very nice wine.
WHERE TO SHOP
Shopping is the reason we haven’t yet toured the inside of the Colosseum. Roma is loaded with great stores. Here are some of our (i.e., G’s) favorites.
Intimissimi. All over Roma. Great lingerie, very reasonably priced! Stop at every store because each carries different things!
List. 79 Via Dei Giubbonari. Beautiful, affordable Italian women’s clothing.
L’altra Moda. 113 Via Frattina. Beautiful, higher priced women’s clothing.
Studio Arti e Mestieri. 146 Via dei Baullari; at the end of Campo di Fiori. Handmade ceramics, great gifts.
Il Papiro. 50 Via del Pantheon. Beautiful handmade Italian paper/stationary.
Fabriano. 173 Via del Babuino. Great handmade Italian paper/stationary/fun.
Shoe store. Go to the Trevi Fountain and turn around so your back is to the fountain. Look slightly toward your right and there it is. Great selection of men and women’s shoes and completely affordable! Tip: Bring sure to bring cash; they don’t take credit cards.
Stefanel. 9 Largo Arenula. Beautiful women’s clothing.
AVC. Piazza di Spagna and 18 Via Vittoria. Very nice women’s shoes.
OTHER HINTS FOR ENJOYING ROMA
- To buy metro tickets in the Roma Termini, avoid the automated ticket machines and head to the tobacco shop around the corner! Easier and reliable.
- Enjoy a picnic or nap in Villa Borghese! (Climb up the Spanish Steps, and head to the left.)
- Get a shave at the old world barbershop on Via Frattina, near V. Mario de Fiori (near the Spanish Steps).
- The water from the street spigots in Roma is perfectly fine to drink. To avoid bending over too far, cover the large hole (where the water is streaming out) with the palm of your hand; the water will squirt up a smaller hole on the top of the spout and arc quite high… watch your nose!
- For cash, it’s hard to beat the Bankomats (ATMs). They’re all over the place, and will dispense euros day or night. (Bob is still amazed.)
